Flooring

Hardwood Flooring

Real wood is the only floor in this category that gets more valuable as it ages rather than simply wearing out. It's also the least forgiving to install, because wood is a material that responds to the air around it for its entire life.

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Fully Insured

General liability & workers' comp coverage

EPA Lead-Safe Certified

Certified firm for pre-1978 homes

Years in Business

A decade of Triad craftsmanship

Financing Available

Flexible plans on approved credit

Scope

What hardwood installation includes

Species, width, grade and finish consultation, including matching an existing floor
Moisture meter readings on both the subfloor and the wood before installation
Minimum one-week acclimation in the conditioned space
Subfloor preparation: fastening squeaks, flattening, and vapor retarder as required
Nail-down installation for solid, or nail, glue or float for engineered as the substrate dictates
Racking boards from multiple cartons so color and grain vary naturally across the room
Site sanding, staining and multiple finish coats when site-finished is chosen
Stair treads, risers, thresholds, reducers and shoe molding to match

Our approach

Installation note: acclimation and dust control

Hardwood needs to reach equilibrium with your home's humidity before it's fastened down, which is why we deliver it a week early rather than installing off the truck. Skipping that step is what produces the gaps every winter and the cupping every August. If we're sanding on site, we run dust-containment vacuums at the sander and seal off the rest of the house — it's still the messiest week of any flooring project, and we'd rather you hear that now.

1Test subfloor and ambient moisture; confirm solid versus engineered
2Deliver material to acclimate in the conditioned room for at least a week
3Prep subfloor, install vapor retarder, and set the starting line square to the room
4Rack and fasten the field, blending boards from several cartons
5Sand, stain and coat if site-finished; then trim, transitions and a final cure period

Why STRYDE

Why homeowners choose hardwood

It's repairable, not disposable

A gouge in LVP is a plank replacement and a color-match gamble. A gouge in hardwood is a sanding job. Twenty years in, a solid floor gets refinished for a fraction of a replacement and looks new again.

Buyers in older Triad neighborhoods expect it

In Fisher Park, Ardmore, Buena Vista and comparable streets, original or period-appropriate wood is part of what the house is. Covering it with vinyl reads as a downgrade to exactly the buyers those homes attract.

You can change your mind about the color

Stain is a decision you can revisit. Clients who tire of a dark walnut floor can go natural or white-oak-toned during a refinish without touching the boards — an option no printed-surface product offers.

Questions

FAQs about this service

Solid or engineered hardwood — which should I get?

Solid is 3/4" of one species and can be refinished many times, but it must be nailed to a wood subfloor and it moves with humidity. Engineered has a real wood veneer over a stable plywood core, handles slabs and crawlspace moisture better, and can usually be refinished once or twice. On a concrete slab or over a damp Triad crawlspace, engineered is the correct answer, not a compromise.

Site-finished or prefinished?

Prefinished arrives with a factory aluminum-oxide finish that's tougher than anything applied on site, and you can walk on it the same day. Site-finished gives you a perfectly flat surface with no micro-bevels between boards and lets us match an existing floor exactly — at the cost of several days of sanding, coating and staying off the floor.

Bold design. Flawless craftsmanship. Built to last.

Talk hardwood with someone who'll check the moisture first

We'll meter your subfloor and tell you whether solid or engineered is right for your house.