STRYDE Home — bathroom remodeling, renovation, restoration and rental turnovers
Flooring

Tile Flooring

Tile is the only floor in this lineup that is genuinely permanent. Nothing you track in wears it, nothing you spill soaks into it, and it will outlast the house's next two owners — provided what's underneath it never moves.

Fully Insured

General liability & workers' comp coverage

EPA Lead-Safe Certified

Certified firm for pre-1978 homes

Years in Business

A decade of Triad craftsmanship

Financing Available

Flexible plans on approved credit

Scope

What tile flooring includes

  • Removal of existing flooring plus adhesive and thinset grinding where needed
  • Joist deflection assessment and reinforcement where the span is marginal
  • Self-leveling underlayment or patch to bring the substrate into plane
  • Uncoupling membrane or cement backer board, taped and thinset-bedded
  • Optional electric radiant heat mat with a programmable thermostat
  • Dry layout approved by you, centered on the room's primary sightline
  • Porcelain or ceramic set with leveling clips to control lippage
  • Grout, color-matched caulk at changes of plane, sealing, and transitions
Our approach

Installation note: the substrate decides everything

Tile has essentially no flex. If the floor structure moves more than the industry deflection limit under load, the grout cracks first and the tile follows — and no amount of expensive tile prevents it. We measure joist span and spacing before quoting, and if the floor needs sistering or a layer of additional subfloor, that appears as its own line item rather than being buried or skipped.

  1. 1Assess deflection, subfloor thickness and height against adjacent flooring
  2. 2Demo, reinforce and level the substrate
  3. 3Install uncoupling membrane, plus radiant heat if selected
  4. 4Dry-lay the pattern, confirm sightlines and cut placement with you
  5. 5Set with leveling clips, cure, grout, seal, and install transitions and trim
Why STRYDE

Why homeowners choose tile

Doors, mudrooms and laundry take real abuse

Wet shoes, a leaking washer hose, road salt and grit destroy soft flooring at an entry. Tile is the one surface where none of that registers, which is why we recommend it at exterior doors even in houses that are otherwise all LVP.

Design range nothing else matches

Large-format concrete looks, herringbone, hex, real stone visuals with porcelain durability — tile gives a kitchen or entry a character that printed plank flooring can imitate but not equal at close range.

It pairs perfectly with radiant heat

Tile is cold, and that's usually the objection. A thin electric mat under it turns the coldest floor in the house into the warmest one, and it's only economical to add while the floor is already open.
Questions

FAQs about this service

Porcelain or ceramic — is there a real difference?

Yes. Porcelain is fired denser and absorbs less than 0.5% water, which makes it appropriate for entries, laundry rooms and anywhere that meets outdoor moisture. Ceramic is softer, easier to cut, and cheaper — perfectly good for a low-traffic interior floor, but we won't put it at a door that sees rain.

Why does tile cost more per square foot than LVP?

Because most of the labor is invisible. Tile can't span a flexing subfloor, so the deflection check, reinforcement, leveling and uncoupling membrane happen before a single tile is set. That prep is typically the larger half of the line item, and it's exactly what a low bid leaves out.

Bold design. Flawless craftsmanship. Built to last.

Get tile quoted with the prep itemized

We'll check your floor structure on site and show you exactly what the substrate needs.

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